Island Time

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The plane landed in Maui after dark, and I drove across the island unable to see the scenery I’d come for. It felt slightly unsettling, like I was being led around by blindfold, to know I’d wake up in a world far away and vastly different from the damp chill I’d left behind in Seattle.

When the lights flipped on the next morning, the great wide hump of Haleakala rose above a ring of brown clouds, and the ocean sparkled beneath great, arching palm trees and chunks of black volcanic belch.

My week in Maui was the perfect mix of these two very different landscapes: the alluring sand and crashing waves, and the rainforests and high altitude of “up country,” on the slopes of Haleakala. My first order of business was to soak up some much-needed vitamin D on Charley Young Beach, near the house I rented in Kihei.

I’d read Kihei was the tourist epicenter of Maui, and the description wasn’t far off. I did expect high rise condos a la Gulf Shores or Destin, so that was a welcome difference. There was a cluster of t-shirt shops and over-priced restaurants that gave the place the air of Florida’s manicured commercialism–except, oh hey, the enormous hulking volcano in the backdrop. Still, I was happy to lounge on the beach before my sunset cocktail cruise, which I wrote about for Viator here.

The next day was an early start for a snorkeling trip to Molokini, an island that’s a half-sunken arc of a former volcanic vent. Now, it’s a coral reef and a favorite with snorkelers. I half-pictured myself getting finned in the face by clueless kids and bumbling land lubbers, but there was plenty of room to spread out and enjoy the reef without getting knocked into other swimmers. On the way back to the harbor, I gorged on pulled pork while keeping an eye out for sea turtles; we saw several.

Then, it was time to explore the rainforested creases of Iao Valley State Park, which protects the stunningly concave Iao Needle. Rain threatened up-valley, but just a few sprinkles fell on the hike I took into the forest. You can’t go too far into the valley here; it’s off limits because it’s a sacred spot for indigenous Hawaiians. While the valley looks like a tantalizing place to backpack for a few days, you get plenty of views and photo-ops on the hike.

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Next, it was off to Hana Road, the famed coastal highway that encircles East Maui and Haleakala. Waterfalls, coast views, crashing surf, and rainforest are the highlights here, though the road is busy and narrow. A few frustrating driving interactions took away from the experience a bit. But I did swim in the bracingly cold Seven Sacred Pools and hiked through a humid bamboo forest to a 400-foot waterfall, so I can’t complain too much.

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I’d read about sunrise on Haleakala’s 10,000-foot summit, but decided against a chilly, early morning drive to the top. Instead, I caught sunset after a hike into the crater’s big bowl. The crater slowly grew dark while the sun sank against a massive carpet of clouds. I sipped coffee from a thermos and peered off at the Big Island’s own volcanoes far in the hazy distance, thinking, “Next time.”

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Summer coming early to the North Cascades

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With the weekend forecast for abundant sunshine and temperatures grazing the 80s, I desperately wanted a play date in the mountains. I picked the Boulder River Trail to hike with friends, in part because it’s shaded so we wouldn’t overheat.

The hike sits off Highway 530, which brings you east into the Cascades. The road winds through a tight valley filled with farms, and the bright, spring green of the deciduous trees belie the early summer we seem to be having. Before we even reached the trail head, a tantalizing peek at the glacier-capped serrations of the North Cascades came into view. Note to self: Find a trail into these mountains once the melt out a bit.

The trail itself starts out in a logged-out forest before reaching old growth. The sun disappears and you hike high above the cacophonous Boulder River. You enter a gorge, and soon you’re standing at an unnamed but impressive waterfall, one that splits in two as it careens down the rockface. About a mile later, there’s another waterfall, also streaming down the canyon’s side. We chose to turn around here since we got a bit of a late start, but the trail continues another two miles until it ends at a gravel bar on the river.

This is a great trail for families with kids, hikers with knee problems (like in our group), or an early season warm-up before the tougher hikes melt out from under the deep winter snow.

Beautiful Bivalves

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Last Saturday I braved 20-mph winds to gorge myself on oysters at Hama Hama’s Oyster Rama, an annual festival dedicated to the bivalve. (There were also clams to be dug, if you so desired).

Hama Hama’s farm sits on the Hood Canal, a 65-mile long fjord separating the Olympic Peninsula from the Kitsap Peninsula. I’d only crossed over the canal when going to coast or to Olympic National Park, so it was a good excuse to check out the fishing villages on the canal itself. And to eat a whole bunch of oysters.

The festival included a u-pick opportunity, where you pay $5 to hand select a dozen oysters, right off the flats. The oysters sat in clusters or singles in what seemed like several miles of beach, and volunteers were on hand to help the uninitiated (including me) figure out what was good for eating. The flats themselves were a fascinating habitat of hermit crabs, shellfish, minnows, and even a sea cucumber. It was so windy I lost my balance several times, but it was worth it. Not only did I leave with a bucket of oysters and a belly full of good eats, I also learned how to shuck. I hope to be back next year!

Seattle’s dirty little secret

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I was sitting in Sea-Tac airport waiting for my very delayed flight to Maui to board when I got an email inviting me to a press event* for Cucina Fresca, a Seattle-based gourmet food company. I’d had their tasty butternut squash ravioli a while back and thought, why, yes, I would like to be wined and dined at a private event by your owner. Count me in.

Executive Chef Brad Glaberson prepared dishes using his incredible array of sauces, pastas, and raviolis, plus two souped-up mac-n-cheese dishes and a delightful clam chowder using Cucina’s pomodoro sauce. Between samples, we chowed on bread rounds dipped in various sauces, pesto, and artichoke dip.

While we ate, Chef Brad told us about his company. It’s clearly his baby, as evidenced by the fact he used “awesome” to describe his products. He called it “Seattle’s dirty little secret” because several restaurants use his products. As impressive as everything tastes, I think I’m most amazed at the growth of the company (they offer 130 products in over 1,000 grocery stores around the country) as it’s stayed true to its mission of providing great food from fresh ingredients. Every product is made in small batches that require lots of work by hand: picking fresh basil, chopping whole garlic, grating obscene amounts of cheese, simmering tomatoes, and sourcing first cold press extra virgin olive oil. The ingredients list is surprisingly short and free of fillers, preservatives, and lab-created crapola. They peel the annoying stickers off individual pears, people. I get annoyed when I have to do that a handful of times a week in my kitchen, but I can’t imagine doing it over and over, with countless bazillions of pears.

It was interesting to get a behind-the-scenes insight into how this stuff is made. Though I enjoyed the ravioli I bought years ago, I took it for granted that fresh, delicious food had somehow appeared in my neighborhood co-op’s refridgerated food section. I hadn’t thought about the massive amounts of fresh squash that is hand cut and roasted and pureed to fill the pillowy pasta squares I had scarfed. This food writer is suitably impressed.

*That counts as a disclosure. I got free stuff, but I decided to write this of my own volition, because Cucina Fresca is cool and the food is delicious.

Musings on a wild boar sandwich

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As I walked around Portland this past weekend, I alternatively fueled my strides with coffee, beer, and food. The abundance of food trucks made the latter easy.

At lunchtime on Saturday, my friends and I passed up several food truck clusters in search of the collection of carts encircling an entire city block at SW 9th and Washington. The trucks here are cattycorner to O’Bryant Square, which has plenty of spots to sit.

I made two laps around the block before I settled on the weirdest thing I could find: a wild boar sandwich with arugula and blood orange marmalade, a special menu item from The People’s Pig. The truck has received a good bit of hype for its meaty menu, which includes sandwiches of pork belly, porchetta, and flank steak. All meat is wood fired on the spot, using a mesquite grill, and sandwiched on a bun of homemade sourdough.

A lengthy wait and $10 later, I walked to the square with sandwich in hand. The meat’s mesquite smokiness paired well with the sweet, tangy marmalade, and the slight kick of the arugula added a nice dimension to each bite. But I’m sad to report the incredible potential of these flavors was dampened by the fact that the bread, though tasty, was too chewy and the meat too dry, despite being ladled with some kind of pork juice. My gums and jaw hurt when I finished, and there was too little marmalade for this sauce lover.

Back at home, I researched wild boar, thinking that my sandwich choice was a tasty solution to the overabundance of these nuisance animals. It turns out that commercially available wild boar isn’t truly wild, as the U.S. Department of Agriculture bans the sale of wild animal meat. The Seattle PI reported the “wild” label is a bit of a stretch; generally, these pigs are farm-raised and allowed to scrounge around for “non-cultivated food,” and later trapped for slaughter. Truly wild they are not.

If you’re curious about wild boar too, it’s available locally. Quinn’s Pub has a wild boar sloppy joe, and Volterra serves wild boar tenderloin. You can also pick up frozen wild boar shoulder from Don and Joe’s Meats.

Weekend in Portland

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It’s tough to pass up an offer to stay free at a really nice hotel. It’s this kind of thing that makes you drop everything and drive a couple hundred miles through snow and ice to take advantage of.

The Benson Hotel in Portland, Oregon is celebrating it’s 100th anniversary, and their PR people invited travel writers to stay there for free. (There’s the requisite disclosure.) I’d never heard of the hotel, but it has a prime location in the middle of downtown Portland, within spitting distance of the Saturday Market, Powell’s Books, a bunch of breweries, restaurants, and coffee shops, and lots of other neat stuff. Oh, and did I mention it was free? Sold. Sam, the travel buddy, was down, too.

Upon arrival, we were treated to a tour of the hotel with the marketing director. The lobby is quite stunning, with lots of old wood and marble, and posh furniture with gold accents. It felt a little too fancy for this lowly travel writer, but then I saw a couple wearing jeans and dragging their really bored pre-teen boys and I felt more at home.

We got access to some of the super-secret parts of the hotel: the wine cellar, the penthouse suites (where I’m told celebrities were currently staying! OH!) and, to top it off, the Presidential Suite, where every sitting president since Taft has stayed. Obama has yet to spend the night, but he’s set foot in the room, so that mostly counts. Tres impressive.

After the tour, it was time for a beer. Cascade Brewing has been on my must-list for a year now, ever since I started on the sour beer journey. Cascade is THE place for sours in the Northwest, so I walked over a mile through falling ice pellets to get to their barrel house. We tried a bunch of sours but my favorite was the kriek, which had a delightful balance of jaw-aching sour with mellow cherry. And the cheese plate wasn’t too bad, either.

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Next, we found a shop on an otherwise bland street of seemingly vacant buildings. The shop had things like reclaimed furniture, found objects, and air plants, and I’m a sucker for that shit. Inside I also found two gigantic mop dogs, just chilling. Later that night, we met with Sam’s sister and her boyfriend for dinner, which was fun, but the meal was unremarkable, so we’ll just skip that part.

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The next morning, we were torn on where to eat for breakfast after learning the crazy waffle-sandwich food truck we’d been recommended had shuttered. We stopped for coffee at Stumptown, one of our favorites of the Seattle-Portland area, and I had a fantastically flaky, perfectly buttery chocolate croissant to go with my always-impeccable latte. Then we checked out the Blue Collar Bakery across the street, in part because it advertised, “We’re not afraid of butter!” The tiny breakfast bundt cake of apple, cheese, and spinach hit the spot.

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Then it was on to the Saturday Market, which is also on Sundays. We met friends there and then decided to get the hell out of the overcrowded market and headed for the path along the river, under the cherry blossoms. The sun started to peak out, alighting the bright green grass and warming up the morning just a bit. After a food truck foray, it was time to head back to Seattle.

We made one brief stop at Upright Brewing, mostly because I just wrote about them in Seattle Weekly. I bought some of their oyster stout to take home, and we sampled a few beers–two sours, both fantastic. At Upright, there’s no true tasting room. You pay cash for your beer and set it on top of a stainless steel table or a big barrel or one of the few small tables squeezed in between all the brewing equipment. I would have tried more, but, ya know, I was driving.

Portland always surprises me. I kind of snub my nose at it sometimes, being the faithful Seattleite I am, because the scenery isn’t as epic as it is here (two mountain ranges! lakes! the Sound! tons of hills!) but there are other things going for it, I suppose. You’re pretty ok in my book, Portlandia. You’re pretty ok.

Reveling in good food and good company

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I’ve heard many things about Revel, the much-celebrated Korean fusion restaurant in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood. Most of the buzz has been positive (life-changing food! nom!), but I’d heard some complaints, too (the drinks are too pricey! this place is too snooty!). I’m always more fascinated by restaurants that generate interesting conversation and some controversy than I am eateries that everyone likes. I finally had a chance to go last night with a group of friends to catch up with another friend visiting from out of town.

We sat in the cramped, dimly-lit bar next door, Quoin, for a while, until it and the restaurant cleared out. The cocktails are a bit pricey, setting you back about $10. Luckily, I’m not a fan of cocktails, and ordered a lovely, smokey-sweet brown ale from Two Beers Brewing.

Next we moved onto Revel proper, the adjoining space with significantly better lighting and an open kitchen. One of my friends remarked that it reminded her of Waffle House, until I pointed out that the last time she and I were at Waffle House together in college, many moons ago, the staff was scouring the grease behind the grills with a pressure washer. Torrents of light brown goop ran into the floor drains just as we ordered our food. Revel is nothing at all like freaking Waffle House.

The restaurant was surprisingly busy for a Monday night, so by the time we got our food I felt famished. My fault for going four hours without eating; beer is no substitute for actual, solid food, turns out. I made quick work of my Dungeness crab noodle bowl (Dungeness crab, seaweed noodle, creme fraiche, spicy red curry), which reminded of an alfredo pasta dish, only much tastier. There was savory coconut milk, a gentle touch of ginger, and bright sprigs of cilantro. My only complaint is that the sparse three leaves of bok choy were not sliced at all, making them a bit hard to get on the fork. Their presentation was lovely, but their large size compared to the other elements of the dish made the whole thing hard to eat. I didn’t let it stop me, though.

Yeah, I’d probably go back to Revel. Next time, I’ll have a snack first.

 

Verge of spring

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It’s technically still winter, though the irises and daffodils and crocuses are starting to bloom and the tulips are just pushing through the damp soil. We’re getting a little more sunshine, but there’s still plenty of rain and soggy, cloudy days ahead. It’s the perfect time of year to take advantage of all Seattle has to offer indoors. Read: drinking a lot of beer and eating a lot of food.

Friday I headed to Epic Ales with some friends to check out the new tasting room. Previously, if you wanted a sample, you’d have to sit at a picnic table and wobbly bar stools in the doorway of the weird storage/office building where Epic brews. Said table was next to Epic’s 200-square foot brewing space, which, as I remember, was cordoned off by chicken wire and plywood. Suffice it to say the tasting room is an upgrade, but either way, that beer is damn worth it. Hell, I’d probably stand out in the rain to drink it.

Epic also had free Hama Hama oysters on tap, and they’ll soon be permitted to sell oysters at a buck each. Cody the brewmaster collected all the shells for his Black Oyster Gose, a sour beer steeped with oyster debris. Mind blown. Can’t wait to try that in three weeks.

In other news, it’s finally time to start gardening again, so I put in some radishes today. When they’re done in a month or so, we’ll have salads with radishes from now til fall–that’s the plan, anyway. We’ll see if the slugs have something different in mind.

Sunshine in February

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Every now and then, the sun comes out in winter. And that means I try to get to the nearest vantage point to look at the snow-covered Cascades or Olympics.

Today I ventured out beyond my usual spots to Discovery Park. It’s a weird space because it’s part decommissioned military base, part sewage treatment plant, and part awesome park, with trails leading to wind-swept bluffs and to a lighthouse on the beach. The abandoned military housing creeps me out a little, but the views are rewarding.

Despite it being a weekday, lots of kids were out, building forts out of driftwood on the beach. I enjoyed the clear view to Mount Rainier and spotting the ferries zipping back and forth to Bainbridge Island. Next time someone asks me why I moved here, I’m just going to show them these pictures. ‘Nuf said.

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Perfect day for a snow day

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Being a freelance writer certainly has its share of challenges, but the perks are pretty great, too. The forecast on Friday called for uncharacteristically sunny skies, so I skipped work and headed out to Snoqualmie Pass with a pair of snowshoes.

The pesky marine layer had Seattle socked under fog when I left home in the morning, but the farther I drove into the mountains, the more it dissipated. Sometimes–surprise–the forecast is terribly inaccurate, but I kept my fingers crossed for blue skies. Still, it’s hard to be disappointed here. Sunny or cloudy days this time of year reveal dramatic scenery in the mountains, even if you never leave the road. Ice blocks cling to the dynamite-blasted cliffs towering over the road, and snowy peaks fill the car windows.

There are plenty of easily accessible, rewarding snowshoe routes along the I-90 corridor near the Pass, but I chose Gold Greek for its fantastic photography opportunities. Unfortunately, I forgot to charge my camera battery, so apart from these two pictures, I missed plenty of great photo opps. Doh!

The Gold Creek trail is flat, short, and scenic, and it’s just about an hour from Seattle. It’s a great place to test out snowshoes with beginners, or, to bring a (fully charged) camera. You can walk the entire loop around the lake in under an hour, even if you stop to snap photos. Snow-covered peaks frame a small pond, most of which is frozen over this time of year. Go after the snow melts for photos of the mountains reflected in the water. There are a lot of rewarding hikes nearby, but Gold Creek probably takes the prize for best scenery for the least amount of effort expended.

Adding this as a day trip to the Seattle Day Trips app this afternoon!

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